Jaume Labro: The Japanese Art of Mokume Gane

Jaume Labro is a specialist jewelry house dedicated to the rare Japanese metalworking technique known as Mokume Gane. By combining 17th-century samurai forging methods with modern ethical standards, the brand has established a distinct position in the bespoke jewelry market. The brand's work is characterized by hand-forged precious metals and a commitment to fully traceable, conflict-free materials.

The Technical Mastery of Mokume Gane

The term Mokume Gane translates literally to "wood-eye metal" or "wood-grain metal". This technique was originally developed by Denbei Shoami (1651–1728) in the Akita Prefecture of Japan during the late 17th century. Originally used for the decoration of samurai sword fittings, such as the tsuba (guard) and kozuka (utility knife), it requires a sophisticated understanding of heat, pressure, and metallurgy to fuse different non-ferrous metals into a single, multi-layered billet without the use of solder.

The process utilized by the Jaume Labro workshop involves several rigorous stages:

  •  Bonding through Diffusion: Different metal alloys—such as 18k yellow, rose, white, and green gold, silver, and palladium—are stacked and subjected to intense heat and pressure.

  •  Creating the Billet: The metals are heated until the interfaces become molten, often forming a "eutectic" layer where the different alloys bond together into a solid "sandwich" or billet.

  •  Hand-Forging and Patterning: The resulting billet is hand-forged, twisted, and carved. Because the patterns are revealed through the physical manipulation of the layers, every piece possesses a unique, non-repeating grain reminiscent of wood.

Heritage and Artistic Pedigree

The foundation of Jaume Labro’s expertise stems from direct study under Japanese masters. Jaume Labro, a graduate in Art History and a GIA-trained gemmologist, traveled to Kyoto, Japan, to study the mokume-gane technique under Master Norio Tamagawa, a renowned master of the art.

Unlike mass-produced jewelry that relies on casting molds, Jaume Labro utilizes a hand-forging approach. This metallurgical method results in a dense metal structure, which is often finished with matte or satin textures to highlight the intricate patterns of the mixed metals.

Ethical Standards and Innovation

While traditional Mokume Gane often focused on decorative objects like bowls or vessels (known as shibori), Jaume Labro has transitioned this technique into the world of high jewelry. A core pillar of the brand is its integration of rare artisanal skill with ethical sourcing:

  •  Precious Metal Selection: The brand utilizes high-purity alloys, including 18k and 22k gold, as well as platinum and palladium, avoiding less durable base metals like copper that can lead to galvanic corrosion in jewelry.

  •  Ethical Gemstones: Jaume Labro specializes in incorporating colored gemstones and diamonds into Mokume Gane designs—a complex feat due to the technical limitations of the material.

  •  Sustainable Philosophy: The brand advocates for a transparent supply chain, aligning with modern industry movements toward "recycled" materials and sustainable practices.

By preserving the "Soul of Artistry," Jaume Labro ensures that each piece is not only a functional piece of jewelry but also a wearable piece of history, forged through a 400-year-old tradition that remains as resilient and unique as the metal itself.

Mokume Gane and Jaume Labro

  • Expertise and Training: Jaume Labro is a master of the mokume-gane technique, a metalsmithing method originally used for decorating samurai swords that has transitioned into the jewelry niche. He studied this technique in Kyoto, Japan, as a student of Master Norio Tamagawa.

  • Brand Identity: He produces jewelry art under the JAUME LABRO brand name.

  • The Technique: Mokume-gane involves bonding different metal layers (such as various karats of gold, silver, and palladium) through diffusion bonding into a "billet" or "sandwich". This billet is then hand-forged, twisted, and carved to create unique, wood-grain patterns.

  • Artistic Style: Labro is noted for experimenting with gemstones and diamonds in his mokume-gane pieces, which is technically complex due to the material lost during the carving process and the skill required to integrate stones into forged patterns.

Key Aspects of Jaume Labro Jewelry

  • Specialization: Expertly crafted Mokume Gane rings, which involve fusing multiple layers of precious metals to create intricate, wood-grain patterns.
  • Customization: Bespoke services are available, allowing clients to customize width (typically 3-10mm) and metal/color combinations.
  • Ethical Sourcing: The company prioritizes sustainability, using conflict-free stones and recycled precious metals.
  • Product Range: Primarily wedding rings and engagement bands.
  • Location: The main office is in Hayama-machi, Kanagawa, Japan. 
Common Metal Palettes (Mokume Gane)
  • Antarctica: 18K White Gold / Silver
  • Cosmos: 18K White Gold / 18K Yellow Gold / Silver
  • Baobab: 18K White Gold / 18K Rose Gold / Silver
  • Aurora: 18K White Gold / 18K Yellow Gold / 18K Rose Gold / Silver
  • Ice: Platinum 950 / 18K White Gold / Silver
  • Volcano: 18K White Gold / 18K Rose Gold

Workshop and Location

  • Workshop Connection: While the brand operates globally, its technical heritage is rooted in Kyoto, Japan, where Labro mastered the forge.

  • Professional Background: Labro graduated from the Autonomous University of Barcelona with a degree in Art History and studied gemmology at the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) in 2007.

Contact and Ordering

  • Website: jaumelabro.com
  • Email: [email protected]
  • Phone:+81 (0) 80 3835 7123
  • Location: 319 Horiuchi, Hayama-machi, Kanagawa (240-0112), Japan